A day of if not idleness then at least of leisure in Guadalajara's centro historico. In the morning wandered in and out of the Regional Museum, complete with 13,000 year old mammoth skeleton and a surreal 17th Century anonymous painting of 21 identikit Carmelite nuns (I don't know which was funnier); cathedral, also 17th Century; Governor's Palace with amazing Orozco murals (although I wish he'd lighten up a bit); and then ended up in a cafe on the Plaza de la Liberacion where I spent four hours catching up on emails and the like.
Opposite was a little girl of about seven years old with (I assume) her dad. He played guitar and she sang. And what a voice: rich, achingly plaintive, mature beyond her years and bellowed out as if her life depended on it, which it probably did. It reminded me of Le Mystere des Voix Bulgares. Someone told me she was actually singing in Catalan. It was amazing - and attracted quite a crowd. I hope she made some money out of it. I think so. They were back there the following day.