Shanghai

From a damp & grey Hong Kong to a damp & grey Shanghai. We are staying initially with Markus and Caroline and their two children, Iona and India, in a fine 1930s townhouse on the western edge of the French concession. It's an interesting area: still plenty of art-deco buildings along leafy avenues and narrower lanes. Markus showed me his office in Red Town, a 'creative zone' which comprises the remains of a steel factory converted into galleries, studios, cafes and offices. In fact, it's where a British Council art exhibition was on show until three weeks ago. We also found J G Ballard's old home which was until recently a converted restaurant but seems to be undergoing another transformation (see photo). The rate of change here is amazing.

The following day we explore more of the French concession: Xintiandi which was probably cool a few years ago but has been gentrified & pedestrianised to within an inch of its life - all designer shops and overpriced restaurants (though our cheaper noodle lunch was excellent); 50 Moganshan art district with its serious, factory-style galleries; and best of all Taikang Lu - a charming, higgledy-piggledy warren of lanes with great little shops and galleries (see other photo).

Next we spend a couple of days with our ex-Bangkok friends Ian & Katy, three girls & new puppy who live to the south of the city in a nice house on a compound. It's Alice's 6th birthday so the children are occupied. Good to relax and experience the other residential option - and it's not too far out as I discover when I make a sortie to visit the Shanghai Museum, Shanghai Art Museum, Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art, and Shanghai Urban Planning Museum. The only downer is the weather: grey, cold and wet.